The sophisticated and vibrant city of JUNEAU is unlike any other state capital in the nation. Accessible only by sea or air, it is exceptionally picturesque, hard against the Gastineau Channel , with steep, narrow roads clawing up into the rainforested hills behind. Gold features heavily in its history. In 1880, two prospectors - one of them Joe Juneau - made Alaska's first gold strike in the rainforest along the banks of the Gastineau Channel. Named Gold Creek, the camp grew rapidly. Until the last mine was shut down in 1944, this was the world's largest producer of low-grade ore - all the flat land in Juneau, stretching from downtown to the airport, is landfill from mine tailings. Food and Drinks Downtown's excellent places to eat and drink fill up very quickly when cruise ships are in town. Armadillo 431 S Franklin St tel 907/586-1880. Justly popular Tex-Mex café and microbrewery serving huge plates of huevos rancheros ($8) and chicken fajitas grande ($14). Bacar's corner 4th and Franklin sts tel 907/463-5091. Quirky hard-to-find restaurant worth seeking out for last-all-day breakfasts ($5-9), clam chowder and burger lunches ($8-10), and dinners that include a wonderful chicken fried steak ($19) and liver, bacon and onions ($15). Closed Mon & Tues. No credit cards. Hanger on the Wharf Merchants Wharf tel 907/586-5018. Renovated, historic floatplane hanger right on the wharf with a tremendous view of the waterfront and over twenty beers on tap, plus pool tables on the mezzanine, and a lively atmosphere, especially at weekends when there is live rock or jazz. Food extends from wraps and burgers at lunch to items like jambalaya and halibut tacos ($8-11) later on. Silverbow Bakery and Restaurant 120 2nd St tel 907/586-4146. Out front there's a wonderful bakery and coffee bar with big windows that catch the morning sun (if you're lucky enough to see any). Traditionally boiled and baked bagels and superb pastries bolster a menu of homemade breads used to make hot and cold deli sandwiches ($5-11). The restaurant (closed Mon) itself has one of the most varied and imaginative menus in town, from salads and soups ($6-9) to kielbasa and pierogies ($11), Indonesian peanut pasta with either tofu or chicken ($12), and pesto and red pepper burgers ($9); and some evenings you can even stick around for the movie. Uncle Sam's Cafeteria 2nd Floor, 709 W 9th St tel 907/586-3430. Low cost dining with a view, inside the Federal Building. Open for breakfast ($4) from 7am, then lunches including daily specials ($6) such as taco salad or chicken fried steak. Closes 4pm. Red Dog Saloon 278 S Franklin St tel 907/463-3777. Straightforward sawdust-on-the-floor tourist trap and merchandising empire masquerading as a raucous, historic bar. Musicians get the cruise ship crowd going from around 2pm. Pretty quiet once the boats leave. USA > Alaska > Southeast Alaska > Juneau
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