Though business still booms for Denver's numerous downtown brewpubs, an onslaught of sports bars in the LoDo district, particularly near Coors Field, have mostly taken over as the city's liveliest nightlife area. And if sports bars don't appeal, there are plenty of other more stylish or relaxing places to drink here, too. Most places close around 1am. For news of musical happenings, consult Wednesday's free Westword , the hip free monthly Freestyle , or the "Weekend" section in the Denver Post .

The remarkable Red Rocks Amphitheater (tel 303/694-1234, ), twelve miles west of downtown Denver, has been the setting for thousands of rock and classical concerts; U2 recorded Under a Blood Red Sky here. This 9000-seater venue is squeezed between two 400-foot red-sandstone rocks that seem to glow in early morning and late evening. The park is open free of charge during the day.

Denver's pride and joy, the modern Denver Performing Arts Complex on 14th and Curtis streets (tel 303/893-4100 or 1-800/641-1222, ), is home to the Denver Center Theater Company, Colorado Symphony Orchestra, Opera Colorado and the Colorado Ballet, and hosts performances nightly. Facilities in the complex include eight theaters , as well as the Symphony Hall (which is in the round, giving it superb acoustics).

In the hunt for tickets , both Ticketmaster (tel 303/830-8497) and Ticketman (tel 303/430-1111) can usually help. You can also try the Ticket Bus, parked on 16th and Curtis, in person (daily: 10am-6pm), where you'll often find last-minute deals on shows that have yet to sell out.

Breckenridge Brewery 2220 Blake St tel 303/297-3644. Atmospheric brewpub opposite Coors Field, you can watch the beers being brewed on site. Serves good pub grub as well.

Brendan's 1624 Market St tel 303/595-0609. Small basement pub in the LoDo with regular live blues; big-name acts pop by a few times a month and cover is rarely more than $10.

Comedy Works 1226 15th St tel 303/595-3637. Right off Larimer Square, Denver's major comedy venue is the most likely place to find visiting big-name stand-up acts. Closed Mon.

Cruise Room Bar   The Oxford Hotel , 1600 17th St tel 303/628-5400. This place is a replica of the Art Deco bar on the Queen Mary ocean liner. Worth a stop for the atmosphere alone.

El Chapultepec 20th and Market sts tel 303/295-9126. Tiny, popular LoDo venue near Coors Field, with nightly live jazz and occasional big names.

The Church 1160 Lincoln St tel 303/832-3528. A dance club inside a gutted cathedral, combining a downtown nightlife landmark, a wine bar, sushi bar and three invariably busy dance floors. Plays mostly hard-house or garage. $5-15 cover.

Grizzly Rose 5450 N Valley Highway tel 303/295-1330. Celebrated Country and Western venue a ten-minute drive north of downtown on I-25 (exit 215). The massive venue has bands every night and attracts famous names regularly. Cover $5-10.

Herman's Hideaway 1578 S Broadway tel 303/777-5840. One of Denver's favorite rock clubs, in a homey little bar just south of I-25, with live music from Wed-Sat.

Mercury Café 2199 California St tel 303/294-928. When there's not jazz on here, there's swing dancing, poetry readings or some other form of entertainment. The club is combined with a good-value restaurant, which serves lots of healthy choices, many vegetarian.

Polly Esthers 2301 Blake St tel 303/382-1976. Enormous and consistently popular club with '70s and '80s hits playing on two floors. Cover $5-10.

The Soiled Dove 1949 Market St tel 303/299-0100. Hugely popular bar with an often rowdy rooftop overlooking Market Street. There's an eclectic variety of live music almost every night; from local to national names and from jazz to rock.

The Stampede 2430 S Havana St and Park Road tel 303/337-6909. The massive antique saloon bar is the centerpiece of this Country and Western pick-up joint in suburban Aurora.

Wynkoop Brewing Co 1634 18th St tel 303/297-2700. Good home-brewed beers and bar food in the state's first brewpub, in LoDo opposite Union Station. There's an elegant pool hall upstairs, and live entertainment in the comedy lounge.

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