The productivity of the bluegrass fields has kept LEXINGTON 's economy ticking over since 1775, though its lack of a navigable river always made its traders vulnerable to competition from Louisville. Eighty miles east of Louisville and ninety south of Cincinnati, Ohio, it still retains large numbers of fine antebellum houses. However, its current affluence dates from after World War I, when smoking caught on internationally and Lexington emerged as the world's largest burley tobacco market. Despite a population now exceeding 200,000, the city maintains an almost rustic atmosphere, with its most conspicuous activity the horse trade. Lexington's large student population means it has several lively, youth-oriented eating places , besides the steakhouses catering for the horse crowd and conventioneers. Fast-food cafés, open until early evening, fill the third floor of central Festival Market , at Main Street and Broadway; the streets around the back hold a few lively bars, which flourish despite the Baptist-inspired 1am curfew on drinking places. Alfalfa Restaurant 557 S Limestone St tel 859/253-0014. Hippy-ish café near the University of Kentucky. A wide range of inexpensive international food, with vegetarian dishes. Live music some nights and rotating art exhibits. Open until 9pm on weeknights, 10pm weekends. Atomic Café , 265 N Limestone St tel 859/254-1969. Fun ambience with good spicy food and potent cocktails. Live reggae Thurs-Sat. Cheapside Bar & Grill 131 Cheapside St tel 859/254-0046. Tasty food, a nice patio and good local bands make this a very popular downtown meeting spot. Ed and Fred's Desert Moon 148 Grand Blvd tel 859/231-1161. Wacky decor, good Southwestern food and pizza. If driving, though, be careful where you park, to avoid getting towed. Furlong's 735 E Main St tel 859/266-9000. Great tasting, reasonably priced Cajun cuisine. Kentucky Theatre 214 E Main St tel 859/231-6997. Evocatively restored 1920s movie palace showing offbeat and art-house films, as well as being a great venue for rock, blues and jazz concerts. Also serves alcohol and decent snacks. Ramsey's Diner 496 E High St tel 859/259-2708. Very popular and atmospheric with tasty sandwiches, burgers and meals for $4-8. Cheap snacks available from the bar after 10.30pm. Open until 1am. USA > South > Kentucky > Lexington, Bluegrass and eastern Kentucky > Lexington
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