LOUISVILLE , just south of Indiana across the Ohio River, is firmly embedded in the American national consciousness for its multimillion-dollar Kentucky Derby . Each year, the horse race attracts over 500,000 fans to this cosmopolitan and well-diversified industrial city, which still bears the traces of the early French settlers who came upriver from New Orleans. Today a third of the country's bourbon is made here.
Louisville's history revolves around a perennial rivalry with Cincinnati, a mere one hundred miles upstream. For example, despite being pro-Union during the Civil War, it promoted itself thereafter erecting Confederate statues and so on as the place for Southern business to invest, as opposed to Midwestern cities like Cincinnati.
Besides a lively arts scene and lots of citywide festivals, Louisville boasts an unrivaled network of public parks, many designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. One native son who took advantage of the recreation facilities was three-time world heavyweight boxing champion Muhammad Ali , who used to do his early-morning training in the scenic environs of Chickasaw Park.
Louisville's restaurants cater for all tastes, though downtown prices are fairly high.
Brasserie Dietrich's 2862 Frankfort Ave tel 502/897-6076. Atmospheric converted movie house in the Crescent Hill district, serving inventive seafood and meat dishes from a wood-burning grill.
Bristol Bar & Grille 1321 Bardstown Rd tel 502/456-1702. Very good bistro-style salads and entrees with great desserts; a perennial Louisville favorite. Branch at 300 N Hurstbourne Parkway tel 502/426-0627.
Heine Brothers Coffee 1295 Bardstown Rd tel 502/456-5108. Friendly espresso bar, attached to Carmichael's , a good independent bookstore.
Jicama 1538 Bardstown Rd tel 502/454-4383. Stylish Latin American grill in the busy Deer Park district. Prices range from $10 to $20 a head.
Lynn's Paradise Café 984 Barret Ave tel 502/583-EGGS. Quite simply a place that has to be visited for its stone-age theme decor. Friendly staff serve big portions of standard American fare, a choice selection of beers, and the best breakfasts in the city. In the lively Highlands neighborhood close to downtown.
Ramsi's Café on the World 1293 Bardstown Rd tel 502/451-0700. Atmospheric café open late with eclectic and very tasty selections.
Rudyard Kipling 422 W Oak St tel 502/636-1311. The decor has a hint of The Jungle Book , but the food is local with a few Indian dishes thrown in. Live music, usually acoustic, most nights. Closed Sun.
Vietnam Kitchen 5339 S 3rd St tel 502/363-5154. A small basic eatery, fifteen minutes' drive out of downtown in the South End, where the city's Asian chefs eat on their days off. The menu is huge.
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