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The major reason to venture into MANDAN is Fort Lincoln State Park ($4), five miles south of downtown via Hwy-1806, where the centerpiece is the Custer House (May-Sept daily 9am-7pm; Oct-April daily 1-5pm; $4), an admirable reconstruction of the 1874 original designed by the brutally ambitious, indefatigable horseman himself. The guided tour supplies nuggets of quirky information about him (he loved to eat raw onions), his wife and their household prior to his death at Little Big Horn in 1876. Nearer the river, four earthlodge reconstructions stand on the site of the once-vast On-a-Slant village, occupied by the Mandan (or River Dweller) tribe from about 1610 to the late 1700s. After the Mandan abandoned On-a-Slant village, they moved upstream and settled on the site that became Fort Mandan, where in 1804 the explorers Lewis and Clark came into contact with the Shoshone woman Sakakawea (aka Sacajawea), who helped guide them west towards the Pacific. The site and adjacent historical museum (summer daily 9am-7pm, Sept daily 9am-5pm, Oct daily 1-5pm; Nov-Apr by appointment; free with purchase of Custer House ticket) sit below a bluff topped with replicas of the Fort Lincoln infantry post. If you don't have a car you can reach the park via trolley from 200 SE 3rd St (summer daily 1-5pm; $5 round-trip; tel 701/663-9018).