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GREENVILLE , seventy miles south of Clarksdale, is the largest town on the Delta. Still an important riverport, it hosts the Mississippi Delta Blues Festival (tel 1-888/812-5837, ) on the third weekend of September. Tree-lined avenues lead from the characterless outskirts into the business district, beyond which pallid warehouses stand in the shadow of a huge levee. If you're staying overnight, the hotels near the river and the casinos would probably be the safest option. For a place to eat , try the original Doe's , at the safer end of Nelson Street at no. 502 (tel 662/334-3315) - arguably the best in the entire Delta for down-home cooking.